Thursday, January 17, 2013

Florida At Last! Pensacola

November 6-8, 2012

Leaving Lulu’s we had a three hour cruise to our next destination, Pensacola, Florida. It wasn’t long after leaving Gulf Shores, AL that we crossed the Florida border.  It was exciting to realize that after a long and wonderful journey from the Chesapeake Bay, through Canada and the Great Lakes, and down the rivers, we had arrived in Florida, which had seemed so far away when we began.

Our welcome to Florida was just right – sunshine, pleasant temperatures, pelicans, dolphins, sugary white sand and blue, blue water. We felt pretty lucky to be boating here.

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Our entry to Pensacola took us by the Naval Air Station, the home of the U.S. Navy flight school and the Blue Angels. The base property also includes the historic Pensacola lighthouse, built in 1859.

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We arrived at the Palafox Marina in downtown Pensacola in late morning. The dockmaster gave us a great lay-along dock right next to the entrance, a very easy place to get the dogs off and on and a pretty park to walk them in.

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Seaquel was already there and waiting for us.  As soon as we got tied up and settled, we walked with Joe and Edie to the nearby downtown neighborhood for lunch. There are so many restaurants in this area it’s hard to choose. We guessed (accurately!) that we wouldn’t be eating on board much in Pensacola. The downtown is very attractive, sort of reminiscent of a small, quieter New Orleans, with many two-story store fronts with intricate wrought iron balconies.

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Pensacola’s public art theme is pelicans.  Here is one of them.

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After lunch Craig, Edie and I explored the area a bit more and visited the T.T. Wentworth Museum, with interesting displays of local history and Mr. Wentworth’s eclectic personal collections. A small display reminded us it was election day, but in the interest of peace and harmony on the boat we didn’t pay much attention to that.

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We learned that Pensacola has had a very long and interesting history. It was the first European settlement in North America, pre-dating Jamestown by almost half a century. It has been controlled by the Spanish (several times), the French, the British, the United States and the Confederate States, hence its nickname, “The City of Five Flags.” We weren’t aware that Spain aided the American colonies in the Revolutionary War by defending Pensacola against the British. Seems it wasn’t so much an alliance with the colonies as it was Spain’s self-interest in keeping the British out of Florida. The area didn’t come under U.S. control until the early nineteenth century.

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That evening, after the obligatory glass of wine on the boat watching yet another beautiful sunset, the four of us walked back to downtown for a fine dinner at Global Grill, a tapas restaurant. No fried shrimp for a change!

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The next morning Craig took advantage of the proximity to town by walking with the dogs to a bakery to buy breakfast to bring back to the boat. Later, we met friends and Gold Loopers Tom and Patsy Conrad for lunch at the restaurant at the marina. They live near Pensacola and were home for a brief time. It was wonderful to see them.

After lunch, Tom and Patsy dropped us at the National Naval Aviation Museum at the Pensacola Naval Air Station.  We met Joe and Edie, who had rented a car and driven there earlier in the day. We had a terrific tour guide, Capt. Howard Rundell, a retired Naval aviator who started his Navy career around the same time Craig did – but Howard stuck with it much longer! He was a great guide and did a good job of showing us the highlights with lots of added behind-the-scenes insights. The museum has an amazing collection of planes from all eras, most of them with interesting individual stories.

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This is one of George H.W. Bush’s actual training planes. The restoration crew took the liberty of renumbering the plane “41” in honor of the 41st president.

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Of course, there are several Blue Angels planes on display.

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And this is the helicopter that flew Richard Nixon away from the White House for the last time.

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We enjoyed the museum so much we went back again the next day. I was particularly taken with the Vietnam POW display.  Boy, did that bring back memories. There was a huge pile of POW bracelets like the one I wore until “my” POW came home. They showed a gripping video piece recounting the experiences of Vietnam POWs, narrated primarily by John McCain. The video included footage of the released POWs’ arrival in Hawaii at the conclusion of the war in the Spring of 1973, with thousands of people gathered at the air force base at 2:00 a.m. to welcome them home. Included in that crowd were Craig and I, in Hawaii with Craig’s ship, which was at Pearl Harbor at the time. We will never forget that experience and it was poignant to relive it.

If you are ever in the Pensacola area and have any interest at all in airplanes, the Navy or American history, do not miss this museum! It’s wonderful.

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After lunch, I went back to the boat to do some work, and Craig, Joe and Edie explored downtown a bit more, checking out an art museum, St. Michael’s Cemetery and the Pensacola Bay Brewery. A varied itinerary!

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That evening, our museum tour guide and new friend Howard Rundell and his wife joined Joe, Edie and us on board Blue Heron. Howard was fascinated with our Loop adventure and wanted to see our boat.  They are very nice people and we had a great time.  When they left, Howard gave his “shipmate” Craig a commemorative medal from his flight squadron. Another example of the many interesting people we have met on the Loop.

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We would count Pensacola as a real highlight of our trip!

Next: Continuing east along the Panhandle.

(Real time update: As of January 17, we are still Carrabelle, FL, waiting for a weather window to cross the Gulf.)

Wednesday, January 16, 2013

Mobile Bay

November 2-5, 2012

This will be the first of a few very belated postings from November. We went home for several weeks over the holidays and I had good intentions of getting the blog caught up, but it never happened. Now we are back on the boat, in Carrabelle, Florida, waiting for a good opportunity to cross the Gulf.  More about that later.  For now, back to Mobile Bay.

After exiting the Tenn-Tom Waterway and entering Mobile Bay, we had a short trip to Dog River Marina, on the south side of Mobile. Dog River is an AGLCA sponsor and we had heard good things from prior Loopers, so it seemed a logical stop. It was a good location, but we’d describe it as more of a boatyard than marina – the amenities are sparse.  But the people were nice, there were several other Loopers in port, and it was a good place to transition from the last few months on the rivers, back to big, salty waters again. Dog River looks like a fun waterway to explore – maybe by dinghy – if we had a few more days, but at that point we were still anxious to keep moving east with hopes of crossing the Gulf of Mexico before heading home for Thanksgiving.

One of the best things about Dog River is that our friends Greg and Jan Matney, formerly of Cincinnati, recently relocated to New Orleans, keep their boat there, and they drove over from New Orleans to see us. They drove us into the city where we had a dinner at a fun place called The Royal Scam.

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They stayed on their boat that night and the next morning we had a quick breakfast with them on our boat before they headed back to New Orleans.

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After Greg and Jan left, we charted a course across the Bay to Fairhope, a lovely small town on the eastern shore.  We had visited briefly two years ago when we looked at a boat in Gulf Shores, AL, and we knew we wanted to return to Fairhope to spend a bit more time.  We had a short and smooth trip across the Bay and were excited to see dolphins again.

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When we arrived at the Eastern Shore Marina, Joe and Edie from Seaquel were there to catch our lines. They had also arranged to borrow the marina’s courtesy car, and since we were the only transients in port, we were free to use it all afternoon.  So we drove into downtown Fairhope and had a wonderful time.

This is a great town!  It’s popular retirement destination, and it’s easy to see why. It has a beautiful location right on the Bay, a thriving downtown, flowers everywhere, and a charming small town appeal. It would be a fun place to live, except it is Alabama, and I’m sure that upon becoming a resident you are required to pledge allegiance to either the University of Alabama or Auburn, and we’d have a hard time with either of those. But that’s about the only downside to this place.

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After a delicious outdoor lunch at an Italian restaurant, Edie and I explored the many very nice shops, and Joe and Craig spent time successfully hunting down wine and gourmet food shops. We all met again at the corner coffee-ice cream-book store that seemed to be the center of this small community’s social gatherings.

Later we enjoyed exploring the combination mayor’s office/history museum, which was featuring an excellent World War II exhibit.  We stayed until it closed at 5:00.

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Then we hurried back to the boats, gathered wine, snacks and beach chairs and walked to the small beach at the end of the marina to enjoy one of Fairhope’s famous sunsets. Once again, we felt to fortunate to be able to experience such a perfect day and wrap it up by sharing a beautiful sunset with good friends.

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The next day we stayed in port doing some boat projects and running a few grocery/drug store errands. Later in the day friends Bob and Cathryn from Next To Me arrived in time to join us for sunset time at the beach again. They planned to stay in Fairhope another day or two, then head across to Dog River, where they would leave their boat while they flew home for the holidays.

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The next morning, Seaquel left early, but we stayed around until late morning, waiting for some stainless steel strips to arrive and be installed on our teak rails. We left at about 11:00 am and headed south down Mobile Bay, heading for the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway (GIWW), which we would ultimately follow all the way along the Panhandle to Carrabelle, where we would prepare for crossing the Gulf.

But that day we went only as far as Homeport Marina in Gulf Shores, Alabama, a short way up the GIWW. We had a smooth ride down Mobile Bay, and enjoyed watching dolphins following in our wake.

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Our first experience travelling an intracoastal waterway was pleasant and uneventful. We saw more dolphins and of course our friends the blue herons.

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It was fun pulling into Homeport Marina, as this was the same marina we had visited two years ago when we were boat-shopping.  We were docked just opposite the slip where the boat we looked at had been. We were happy to be back with our own boat. We had a glass of wine on our sundeck, joined by a handsome blue heron who perched on a dock piling just a slip away from us.

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The big draw at Homeport (besides the fact that it is well-appointed marina) is LuLu’s Restaurant on the premises.  LuLu is Lucy Buffett, Jimmy Buffett’s sister, and her establishment has an appropriate Margaritaville feel to it, with live music every night. We enjoyed sitting on their outdoor deck, eating huge peel-and-eat shrimp, a Cheeseburger in Paradise (of course) and a mango margarita. We were there off-season, but it’s easy to imagine a very hopping place at busier times of year. It was a fun stop.

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Next: On to Florida!